Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these stories and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
