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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. However, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.